Showing posts with label Spring Summer 2010. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spring Summer 2010. Show all posts

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Spring Awakening


As the collections draw to a close in Paris, it’s a good time to reassess and confront the challenges ahead for Spring 2010. Regular peeps must come to terms with ice cream shades and underwear as outerwear. The fashion pack need to learn that just because someone is young and falls out of nightclubs does not make them a designer or a cool, model muse.

First to Lindsay whose debut as artistic advisor at Emanuel Ungaro, working alongside head designer Estrella Archs, was universally panned. My issue isn’t that the clothes were hideous – which they were. My problem is that a once venerable fashion house like Ungaro could just use a desperate quick fix trick of the celeb designer appointment to bring some publicity to the brand. And rather than just putting her face to the name, it turns out she might have had some actual involvement in the design process. The results were an ugly and endless heart motif, nipple pasties that also reappeared on the heads of models and damning reviews. A fashion house of Ungaro’s stature is not a line of leggings. They could have used LiLo in advertising or as a brand ambassador, not have her in some faux artistic role that includes having to take an awkward catwalk bow complete with tears (Lindsay’s) and a face like thunder (Estrella’s).

Meanwhile over in Milan, it seems the Italian fash pack still hasn’t gotten over its fascination with the boring BrIT girls. Front row at Dolce & Gabbana was the ubiquitous Peaches, alongside Alice Dellal, Daisy Lowe and fellow Class of 2008 alum, Portia Freeman. Already this year we have seen Pixie (looking a lot like Shakira) on the cover of Italian Vogue with the cover line "So young, so cool.” Peaches also turned up in March at the opening of the Extreme Beauty exhibition hosted by Vogue and D&G. It’s bad enough having to deal with them looking grumpy and getting thrown evil looks by Anna W at LFW. But taking it international is just more than I can handle. Ok so I may have been one of only 3 people who actually watched Class of 2008 but even I don’t need to see this lot front row or on the cover of Vogue. Poor Dolce thinks this new generation is "interesting" – hmm, I think I'll point him in the direction of Class of 2008 and the London Lite and see how quickly he changes his mind. The Italians need to find some new muses and let the clothes do the talking – the epic finale at Dolce & Gabbana with an army of models in corsets and lippy was powerful enough to hog the headlines on its own. NOK

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Fashi Week Faves


London Fashion Week’s 25th birthday was celebrated in style – some amazing collections, top drawer celebrity attendees and Anna Wintour in the front row. Yup, they did good and it seems like there’s going to be plenty to look forward to in Spring/Summer 2010 (2010 – scary, eh? And what are we going to call that decade? The tennies? The tens? The teens? The tweens?). But before we look at the double denim, sheer blouses and candy colours that we’re all going to be sporting next year, let’s take a moment to remember our fave moments from LFW SS10.

Favourite Accessory – The Claddagh Crown at John Rocha

We’ve never been fans of Claddagh rings and we just don’t get that heart facing outwards if you're single thing, but Claddagh crowns are something that we can get behind. Crowns are always flattering and the Irish connection just makes them extra special.

Favourite Freebie – The Charles Anastase Bag

The Matches pop up shop at Somerset House was selling canvas totes and lovely, soft t-shirts with designs from some of London’s best-loved designers printed on them. At the Charles Anastase show, all the attendees were gifted with his Matches tote, which features a beautiful swan print. Such a chic addition to the stuffed cupboard full of bags-that-you’re-supposed-to-bring-to-Tesco-but-always-forget.

Favourite Party Guest – Sanjay at Mulberry

The Mulberry party at Claridge’s was jam-packed with celebs: Tinsley Mortimer, Lara Stone, Pixie G, David Walliams, Sarah Harding, etc, etc. But Sanjay from Eastenders was our fave. We’ve spied him at fashion bashes before but this time we plucked up the courage to talk to him. We wondered why he comes to these things, especially as he seems to always be alone. The answer’s simple. “I just can’t turn invitations down!” he told us. And what’s he doing these days, we asked. Film, theatre or TV? “Both,” he said emphatically. Okay.
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Best Front Row Guest – Anna Wintour/Henry Conway
Sorry, it’s impossible to choose between these two. Obviously it was a thrill to see Ms. Wintour in the flesh (bones?) at Peter Pilotto but spotting the almost-as-skinny-these-days Henry Conway was equally exciting. He’s toned it down style-wise (gone are the huge hats and ruffled cravats) but we like his new spiffing look just as much.

Favourite Model – The dog at the Mulberry Presentation

The all-black casting at the PPQ show was a much-needed nod to diversity and we were also very fond of the beautiful big-browed Maja at Charles Anastase, but top dog for us was the, eh, dog at Mulberry. So so pretty and adorably unsure of her moves. Plus she’s the only one that you know for sure doesn’t have an eating disorder.

Favourite Canapés – Pret a Manger sandwiches and Sprites

Okay so they’re not strictly a canapé but the regular ingestion of crayfish and rocket sandwiches from Pret was essential for our mental and physical well-being. They must, of course, be washed down with a refreshing Sprite. As regards actual canapés, we loved the candy floss and mini-burgers at the Mulberry party. LE

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Peter Pilotto RTW SS10





Peter Pilotto was the show I was most looking forward to and it was also where I had my one and only Anna sighting this season. I arrived very unfashionably early but not far behind me was the Wintour herself, because that’s just the way she rolls. She was quickly ushered backstage like the queen for her meet and greet with designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos.

The venue filled up painfully slowly so A-Dubs was left pretty much on her own on the front row while we waited for everyone to take their seats – awkward. She looked so tiny and alone that I was tempted to sit next to her and engage in some fashi week small talk, maybe get to the bottom of her inexplicable and slightly creepy obsession with Roger Federer. Luckily, Sarah Mower took pity and sat beside her. Peeps were also having palpitations at the sight of every blogger's favourite, Kate Lanphear, who I just can’t get excited about. Give me Vogue’s Kate Phelan over La Lanphear any day

So did the clothes get the Wintour seal of approval? – fitted dresses with capped sleeves are definitely her thing but I guess we’ll have to wait 6 months to see if they appear on a jumping Caroline Trentini shot by David Sims against a blank background in American Vogue. For SS10, the duo created softly structured silhouettes by twisting and draping the material around the body. The stunning watercolour prints were inspired by dawn, dusk, fireworks, the ocean and the night sky. My favourite print looked like a colourful yet fading, woven tweed and the perspex belts were another standout. Without doubt, the most polished and assured collection I have seen all week. NOK





Sunday, September 20, 2009

Away We Go




We had been considering abstaining from LFW this season. Not to sound ungrateful but sometimes it does get a bit much. Being so tired and stressed that you burst into tears in front of your boss (yes, that was my particular highlight of Spring Summer 09). And the flat does begin to resemble a hostel and everyone gets really cranky by the last day.

But in spite of our best efforts to resist, we found ourselves drawn into the circus. We have to admit it, the night before it all kicks off does feel a little like Christmas Eve. First stop on Day 2 was John Rocha at Somerset House – always a must see for The Portmanteau and we were ecstatic to see Henry Conway on the front row. The show was beautifully whimsical and romantic– high points were a parade of dresses with endless tiers of ruffles in peach, nude and turquoise (which reminded me a lot of Giles SS08's shredded leaf dresses ) and sheer blouses edged with pearls. It also featured some incredible structured bell-shaped dresses made of stiff crochet. A catwalk appearance from Iekeliene Stange and Claddagh-inspired crowns topped it all off. As ever with John Rocha, there was a great familial feeling at the show and lovely music, finishing up with a finale soundtracked by Beirut. NOK