Showing posts with label Nina Ricci. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nina Ricci. Show all posts

Friday, May 1, 2009

Halston No! No! No!

Now that Peter Copping has been officially revealed as the new designer at the helm of Nina Ricci, it's time to find my beloved Olivier Theyskens a new home. I have professed my love for Theykens here before - a love for his beautiful face as well as his beautiful creations. There have been some horrible rumours swirling that he was about to go and join Halston - I can't think of a more ill-suited pairing - completely opposite aesthetics. American sportswear and gothic romanticism do not mix. There would be nothing worse than allowing awful Tamara Mellon & co to get their hands on him. Anna Wintour showed she was firmly on Team Theyskens, praising him in her editor's letter in April's Vogue and slamming Nina Ricci for letting him go. This also made me feel a bit uneasy - Anna usually has crushes on boring people like Roger Federer. I don't want her keeping tabs on my Theyskens by dragging him stateside.

Other goss has linked the brilliant Belgian to a design role at dormant house Schiaparelli - a better fit than Halston but neither really seem like the perfect match to me. Hopefully, OT will manage to avoid the clutches of both Anna & Tamara and can concentrate on reviving his signature label - yes, the financial backing of a Harvey Weinstein type would be nice but more importantly, he could flourish more creatively without the constraints of a fashion house.

Monday, February 2, 2009

Fashion's Game of Musical Chairs

As we know, four seasons just aren't enough in the fashion world and for pre-fall, Hannah McGibbon's Chloe girl is looking a little drab and depressed. Did she have to trudge through 7 inches of snow this morning to get to her poorly paid job as a media slave like us here at The Portmanteau? - I don't think so. Cheer up, love - you have a wardrobe of Chloe clothes at your disposal. With this collection, the colourful Marni-esque designs of McGibbon's predecessor, Paolo Melim Andersson, seem very far away indeed. I know it's a tad uninspired and the colours aren't the most appealing (what would you even call some of them - mushroom?, sludge?) - but I kind of like the depressing vibe and I love the trousers.

The jury is definitely still out on Hannah McGibbon. I wasn't really feeling the salmon scalloped-edged looks for S/S 09 but I think fashion's powers that be should give her the breathing room to find her footing and establish herself. But I do fear for Hannah. I know this is toned down pre-fall, but I'm not sure if these are the looks to reinstate that innate It-girl-ness of Chloe under Stella and Phoebe, and will Hannah be allowed to wait around to find out?

Lately, the revolving door of fashion has been turning faster than ever, with designers in one moment and out the next. Take poor Allessandra Facchinetti - she was informed of her sacking, after only two seasons as head designer at Valentino, when it was reported in the press during Paris Fashion Week. In the words of Cher Horowitz, that was way harsh, Tai. Before that, she had another two season stint as head of design at Gucci. Paolo at Chloe lasted only three seasons. Lars Nilsson - five months at Gianfranco Ferre and now there are rumours that my beloved Olivier Theyskens might be out at Nina Ricci. Constant changes at the reins of fashion houses result in confused collections that prevent the establishment of a coherent brand identity. Translation: this game of musical chairs is no fun at all.

Images from

Sunday, October 5, 2008

The Reminder

Just in case I was in any doubt, Paris Fashion Week has reminded me of my love for the work of Olivier Theyskens. If I had to choose any designer in the world to create my ultimate dream dress, my answer would be Theyskens - and Theyskens during his reign at Rochas to be exact. For seven seasons at Rochas, he produced the most beautiful, romantic collections with a dark edge - the very essence of a gothic fairytale - using elements that I would definitely look for if I was spending thousands on a dress - Chantilly lace, Edwardian silhouettes, couture techniques - I could go on. I loved it all - every single collection. Since his move to Nina Ricci, my love affair has cooled somewhat - none of his collections have blown me away - too many slip dresses and wispy feathered details for my liking. I have been waiting for something really special and after his dance-inspired S/S 09 show in Paris, I think I'm still waiting - but there were definitely hints of the Theyskens trademarks of old that I so admired at Rochas - Edwardiana, dresses cut to reveal the structure underneath, muted colours - and the results were often beautiful. The love affair continues.